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    Basic cap construction: structured versus unstructured

    • Author:Claire
    • Source:Aung Crown
    • Release on:2018-09-11
    Most recent ball caps are made with six panels; often there will be a seam running down the middle of the front. The range of construction methods, such as material thickness and stiffness, can leave some of the seams thick and cumbersome to work with. This can be a factor that determines what design will work best.

    Commercial Embroidery on caps pose special challenges, but look wonderful when done right!

    Customer-supplied artwork with small fonts and several outlines may not work well on a cap. As the commercial embroidery expert, you are the one to work with your client, educating them on what will (or will not) render properly. If the text cannot be separated, a filled background behind the text might be in order.

    Structured caps are with a solid construction, having a rough plastic backing of fused buckram or freestanding buckram behind the front panels. These caps will keep their own shape. Structured caps are easier for commercial embroidery.

    Unstructured caps, when worn, conform to fit the wearer’s head. This type of cap still requires a backing, digitizing and proper hooping. Unstructured caps tend to shift during sewing, so careful hooping is essential.

    When using backing long enough to cover two-thirds of the cap, you will have better stability during sewing. Clamping the cap with clips will also help secure it while sewing.

    In some cases, the backing is glued into the cap using spray adhesive before hooping. A little silicone spray on the backing can reduce thread breaks caused by contact with the adhesive.